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                                  TOOL LIST FAQ
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From the February '88 Motorcyclist, page 46b (Special Newsstand Supplement)
"A Tool List" by Joe Minton

"During the years I spent working on other folks' bikes, I developed
 some definite preferences in tools.  I don't like wrenches that slip
 on the thin heads of bolts often used to hold motorcycles together.
 I would rather not turn a burr on a Phillips-head screw.  I like
 smooth, pleasantly shaped tools that won't hurt my hands when I really
 lean on them.
    Throughout my years of teaching motorcycle repair, my students and I
 have derived several lists of tools for their use as new, professional
 motorcycle mechanics.  It occurred to one of my students that readers
 too might like such a list, not because they need help in finding
 wrenches, but to introduce them to some particularly useful tools.
    The list presented here includes mostly Snap-on tools.  That is partly
 because I generally prefer that brand and have for many years, as do most
 of the professional mechanics I know.
    Snap-on is not the only manufacturer of good tools.  Both Proto and
 Craftsman (Sears) tools have found favor with my students over the years.
 Craftsman tools' main appeal is their convenience and guarantee.
    The Sears guarantee is generous;  I don't know anyone who has been refused
 an exchange.  Snap-on has a similar liberal warranty policy, but you have
 to find the Snap-on truck to utilize it.  Proto warranties its tools as
 liberally as the other two, but since you are dealing with an independent
 retailer due to the way Proto tools are sold, you have to be sure of your
 relationship with that retailer.
    Some versions of a tool are better for motorcycles than others.  Proto
makes the best adjustable (Crescent) wrenches for our use - not just any
adjustable Protos but the *less* expensive black ones.  These wrenches are
thinner and more pointed than any others I know of, and their jaws are
tighter.  Snap-on makes the best Phillips screwdrivers.  The tip of a
Snap-on Phillips screwdriver fits tightly and is hard enough to stay that
way after years of use.  Snap-on flank-drive sockets and wrenches work best
on motorcycle nuts and bolts.  Proto and Snap-on make excellent punches and
pliers.
   The ubiquitous hammer has to be the 24-ounce ball peen.  Try to find
one with a textured plastic or rubber grip so it will not fly out of your
oily hand.  Another great hammer is the one listed by Snap-on as a
Compothane (it is available from other sources as well).  This is a
plastic hammer partially filled with steel shot to keep it from bouncing.
I use a three-pounder most often.
   Most current motorcycles use allen bolts or the new hex-head bolts to
secure their cases and small parts;  others still depend upon Phillips head
screws, which are difficult to remove without an impact wrench.  I strongly
recommend you buy Snap-on No. PIT120 impact wrench; it is the one that works.
The best impact tips are made by Apex - if you can find them.  For casual use,
the tips from Sears or Snap-on are fine.
   All the wrenches listed are combination wrenches;  that is, they have an
open-end and a box-end that fit one hex size.  Double-ended wrenches are a
pain; you always try the wrong end first, or so it seems.  Besides, you often
need both an open and a boxed end on a single nut or bolt.  All but the
10mm wrench are Snap-on's long version, which I find easier to use.  The
10mm recommendation is the short version simply because most of us have more
trouble with overtorquing small bolts than leaving them loose.
   This list is short and is to be considered a guide.  There are some tools
listed that you might not need;  certainly you will want some that are not
on it.  Among those things not listed are a timing light, a circuit tester
and a toolbox to put your collection in.  The two most important items not
on the list are the confidence to use them and a shop manual for your bike.
You can find your Snap-on man through the yellow pages or by asking a
professional mechanic."

Description                 Size          Part Number (typ. Snap-On)
-------------------------   ------        --------------------------
COMBINATION WRENCHES
short combination           10mm          OEXM10
long combination            12mm          OEXM120
long combination            13mm          OEXM130
long combination            14mm          OEXM140
long combination            17mm          OEXM170
long combination            19mm          OEXM190

METRIC WRENCHES
standard socket             10mm          FSM101
standard socket             12mm          FSM121
standard socket             13mm          FSM131
standard socket             14mm          FSM141
standard socket             17mm          FSM171
standard socket             19mm          FSM191
spark-plug socket (opt.)    18mm          S9711
spark-plug socket           13/16in       S9704F
bent-handle flex-head       ratchet       F712
short handle                ratchet       F710BK
extension bar               1-1/2in       FX1
extension bar               3in           FX2
extension bar               6in           FX6
impact driver               3/8in         PIT120
Phillips                    No. 2         FP22A
Phillips                    No. 3         FP32A

PLIERS
needle-nose pliers          7-1/8 in.     96
combination pliers          6-7/16 in.    46
diagonal cutters            6 in.         86
snap-ring plier set                       PR36
vise-grip                   7 in.         VP7WR

SCREWDRIVERS
screwdriver (round shank)   6 in.         SSD6
Phillips                    No. 2, 8 in.  SSDP82
Phillips                    No. 3, 6 in.  SSDP63

PUNCHES AND HAMMERS
hammer, ball peen           24 oz         BPN24A
Compothane hammer           3 lb          BC3A
flat chisel                 5-1/2 in.     PPC812
flat chisel                 7-1/4 in.     PPC824
brass punch                 8 in.         B912
center punch                5 in.         PPC3
long tapered punch (2)      8-1/2 in.     PPC908
MISCELLANEOUS
metric hex wrench set                     AWM5K
adjustable wrench           4 in.         Proto
adjustable wrench           12 in.        Proto
torque wrench               5-75 ft-lb    QJFR275C
hacksaw                                   HS16
chisel-edge scraper                       PK13
general-use feeler gauge (metric)         FB325A
spark-plug gauge                          GA461A
metric-thread file                        TFM7530
tire pencil gauge                         GA241
pocket magnetic pick-up tool              PT7B
*************************************************************************
Another article:
Various excerpts from the February 1992 "Motorcyclist", page 67, article
entitled "Tooling Up":

"Ratchet and sockets: Six-point sockets are much stronger than twelve-points.
 ...
 Combination wrenches: Use the ring end for breaking the fastener loose and
                       the open end for rapid unscrewing.
 Vise-Grips: Keep this as far out of arm's reach as possbile; using
             Vise-Grips instead of the right tool can damage fastners.
Suspension C-Spanner: This spanner makes adjusting most rear suspension
                systems a snap.
Tire Irons: If you need an iron any longer than this, you're doing something
         wrong. [looks about 10" long]
Plastic Hammer: It helps with recalcitrant side covers and cylinder heads.
...
Allen Wrenches: Always use the long, L-shaped allens to break screws loose.
          T handles put too much strain on the wrist and lead to
          tennis elbow.  They are however, much faster at spinning
          screws out once loosened.  We've found ball-end wrenches
          to be invaluable in tight spots.
Hydrometer: This is a must-have for checking battery condition.
...
Voltage meter for electrical troubleshooting:  It's helpful to have an
           Ohmmeter function too, but only the really expensive meters
           ($100 and up) are accurate enough to give results that bear
           any resemblance to the book figures.
Wire Strippers and Crimpers:
...
Plug Wrench: Glue the little plastic piece inside, or you'll likely crack the
          porcelain of your plugs.
...
Tappet adjusting wrenches:
...
Chain breaker:
...
Flashlight:
...
Timing light:
...
Soldering gun, resin-core solder [also a good solder-sucker]
...
Epoxy glue
...
Compression tester
...
Tire-patch kit
[End of excerpts]
*****************************************************************
I'd also add:
 -  C-spanner for the steering head ring nut if your bike has one (for
    adjusting steering head bearing pre-load)
 -  Lifter hold-down tool if you have shim-over-bucket valve
    lash adjustment
 -  Mercury or dial-gauge manometer for carb synchronizing
 -  Plastic gas tank with fuel shut-off valve and long hose to
    supply gas to the bike during carb sync work
 -  Good tire pressure gauges
 -  Spark-plug thread chaser (really, just a tap)
 -  Two or three taps & dies for the most common small-fastener threads
    found on the bike.
 -  Make sure that if your exhaust pipe header mounting bolts are allen
    (hex) head, your allen wrenches can be used with your torque
    wrench to properly tighten them.  You can buy one long hex socket
    allen wrench of the proper size for this and just keep it with your
    sockets.
  - Get *good* snap-ring pliers that can be used on inside or outside
    snap rings.  A good set will have several tips of various lengths
    so you can get down into fork tubes etc. with them.
  - If you can find them get some long, skinny, strong dental probes.
  - A plastic syringe for squirting various kinds of lube into tight
    places.  I have one with a curved tip that will go around corners.
  - A couple of flat pieces of wood the same thickness as your brake
    disc rotors.  You can hold them between the disk pads with a
    rubber band to keep from inadvertently pushing the pistons out
    of the calipers when you have the calipers off for brake work.
  - 300 and 600-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, coarse emery cloth.
  - Slip-joint pliers, sometimes called "water-pump" pliers
  - a Mity-vac or other similar tool for bleeding hydraulic lines.
  - A can of 30-30 for coating fasteners during assembly to prevent
    corrosion and ease later extraction.
  - Small tubes of Locktite thread-locking compound, permanent & temporary.
  - Small can of Gaskacinch (for sticking gaskets & replacing grips).
  - Small can of Gasket remover.
  - Ice pick, several short (about a foot) pieces of 2X4 lumber
  - Wheel-bearing grease, standard and waterproof.
  - WD40
  - Several fist-sized pieces of mattress-type foam rubber, baggies,
    rubber bands - to seal openings during maintenance/cleaning.

Chuck Rogers
car377@torreys.att.com