=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- HTKYMAARFALLT (How To Keep Your Motorcycle Alive And Running For A Long Long Time) =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- From: pooder@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Don Fearn) Subject: HTKYMAARFALLT Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1993 21:36:09 GMT For your edification and enjoyment: HTKYMAARFALLT (How To Keep Your Motorcycle Alive And Running For A Long Long Time) These suggestions are compiled from ideas given by participants of the rec.motorcycles newsgoup, friends and co-workers, magazine articles, dealers, and other miscellaneous Motorcycle Nuts. Oil: If you don't do any other item on this list, do this one; it does more for keeping your motorcycle on the road for many miles than any of the rest. Change your oil regularly and often. How often? Consult your owner's manual, but go by the "severe service" recommended frequency. Change the oil based on time or mileage, whichever comes first. (I usually change mine every three months; I don't often ride to the mileage limit in that time.) Change your filter *EACH TIME* you change the oil. Your filter holds old dirty oil, and you want to change it all, and a new filter is pretty cheap insurance. How about special motorcycle oils? They're a good idea in motorcycles where the transmission and engine share the engine oil. Other motorcycles (like BMWs) where the transmission has its own oil only need a good quality automotive oil. What about oil treatments (such as Slick 50) and synthetic oils? Well, the jury is still out regarding oil treatments (lots of arguments pro and con), but synthetics are pretty highly regarded for extending engine life. It's recommended to make the switch to synthetics after the engine has run 10K - 15K miles or so on conventional oil. Starting: Use the choke as little as possible -- set it to the lowest position that will let your motorcycle start. On warm summer days you might not need to use the choke at all. Keep the warm-up short; ride away gently as soon as the engine runs smoothly, but avoid hard acceleration until the engine is up to its normal operating temperature. Braking: Don't use your engine as a brake. It isn't as effective as the rear brake, it's harder to modulate, and engine braking helps wear out the engine. Get in the habit of squeezing the clutch lever and closing the throttle when you brake. During routine stops, downshift as you slow, so you are in the right gear for rapid acceleration if you need it, but keep the clutch lever squeezed. During panic stops, squeeze the clutch lever so you can focus all your attention on braking and steering. Idling: Don't idle your motorcycle when it's on its sidestand. Motorcycle engines are are designed to be run in a vertical orientation only, and the crank end bearings and other parts will wear out sooner when the engine is run at an angle. (Note that when you lean over for a curve, turning forces keep the engine internal parts and oil vertical relative to each other.) Don't "blip" the throttle while you're waiting in traffic. That might sound cool, but it causes unnecessary engine wear. If you're stopped at an intersection and it looks like you'll be waiting for more than a few seconds, snick the transmission into neutral and engage the clutch (let the clutch lever out). This reduces wear on the clutch throw-out bearing, which is one of the most common reasons for clutch failure. Turn the engine off if you're waiting longer than a few minutes. Miscellaneous routine maintenance: Clean your motorcycle regularly. You'll notice problems sooner if they're not obscured by layers of grime. Pay extra attention to the cooling fins on an air-cooled motorcycle and the radiator on a water-cooled motorcycle. Keep all the controls and the chain (if any) properly lubricated (see the owner's manual). Change the brake fluid annually. Check the air filter every time you change your oil -- more often if you've been riding a lot in dusty areas -- and change or re-oil it when it's dirty. Follow the guidelines in "Ron's Encyclopedia of Motorcycle Storage" for putting your motorcycle away for the winter (unless you're one of those lucky enough to ride year around). Riding style: Keep the revs down. Running near redline is rough on engines. Don't lug the engine either, though. Keep the engine speed in a range where you can accelerate easily when you twist the throttle twist grip, but well below the redline. Avoid short trips. Trips of less than three or four miles result in the oil getting contaminated more quickly. If your commute is only three miles like mine, ride that scenic ten-mile route through the countryside on the way to work, instead. It's more fun, and better for your motorcycle, too! Riding skills: Take the MSF classes. One of the best ways to ruin a good motorcycle is to dump it on the street. Doesn't do the rider much good, either, but don't worry about that; this list is for keeping motorcycles going. Practice those riding skills after the class is over to keep them sharp. ____ _____ / ) / / / __ ,__ /___ __ __. ,__ ,_ Rochester, MN / / / ) / / / /__) __| / / / DoD #531 /___ / (_ / / / / /__ (_/| / / / pooder@msus1.msus.edu